Danger in the Dolomites

I had been interested in the mountain town, Cortina d’Ampezzo for many years, when I finally decided I had to visit it. The site of the 1956 winter Olympics, Cortina is two hours north of Venice in the Dolomites Mountains. Tucked into a green, rolling valley, the town is incredibly scenic.  High jagged peaks rise from the valley floor, providing dramatic views from any place in the area. A popular ski resort in the winter, Cortina is a destination point for climbers and hikers in the warmer months.

I instantly resonated with Cortina as I had with Aspen, Jackson Hole, and Franconia, New Hampshire in the Unites States.. On our first trip we stayed at a hotel I found on the Internet. The Hotel Ancora proved to be a terrific discovery for Vicki and me. Family owned for 4 generations, the hotel was built in 1826. Designed in the Tyrolean style, our room, which overlooked the central square, where autos weren’t allowed, was outfitted with locally crafted furniture and accouterments.

The manager of the hotel was Flavia, who swept through different parts of the property issuing orders and proclamations. It was if we were participants in an opera with no music. She did treat us well, though she seemed to be a little competitive with Americans, whom she liked to shower with her travel stories.

Since our first trip to Cortina, we have been back several times. Our routine, which was established during our first stay, remains the same. It goes as follows. Up at 7, we walk the three flights down to breakfast, which is served buffet style. The long tables are filled with baked goods, fruit, cold cuts, cheese, and eggs. It is hard to go hungry in Italy.

After breakfast we often wander through the square to the newsstand to buy the Herald Tribune, which we read back in our room. At some point we gather our packs, hiking poles, and rain gear and walk to a ski lift about two blocks from our hotel. The lift takes us to a ski lodge from which we begin the day’s hike. We walk up hill for a mile or so and then begin a long traverse across a ridge with high mountains across the valley. The views are breathe taking. Patches of snow are everywhere, though it is the middle of summer. Eventually we turn back and walk down to the ski lodge for some lunch.

The weather now is threatening, and we have to make a decision of what to do, since the cable car doesn’t run in the rain. We decide it would be fun to walk down to Cortina, find the trail, and begin. Though I was aware that the route of the cable car was up a steep face, I figured the trail down would follow some wide switchbacks. This wasn’t so.

The trail down was very steep, requiring much care. Ten minutes into the hike, the rains came, causing streams to develop along the trail. It was hard to keep our footing. Twice I fell off the trial into bushes. The temperature dropped, and we were struggling. We had the right gear, so hypothermia wasn’t a threat. Towards the bottom of the trail we met a hiker heading up in blue jeans, clothing which is useless in cold rain. I “suggested” he turn around, describing to him, what we had just come through. To his credit, he heeded our warning and turned around.

It took us a while to find the right road to the hotel at the bottom of the trail. Once in our room we warmed up, took showers, and rested. Around 5:30 we toured the square along with other locals and tourists. Kids were dancing on the bandstand stage, designer dogs were prancing with their proud owners, and shopkeepers were hoping to lure walkers into their places of business with fine Tyrolean outfits and goods from local craftsmen.