Friday, July 5, 2019


Zermatt: 1984




When we arrived at this carless village, and I saw that the taxis were horse-drawn sleighs, I should have known. This wasn’t going to be a burger and brewski vacation. In those days the dollar was strong, and we were in the Mt. Cervin, a five-star hotel for $100 a day for both of us. The fee included two meals, afternoon tea, and all the resources of the hotel.

The first night I went to the dining room, the maĆ®tre d said I needed a sport coat to enter. What? Well, I didn’t have one. He lent me a Tyrolean jacket with leather lapels for the night. Though I thought the regional jacket had character, it was expensive, so I bought a tweed coat in a local shop.

Was the food good? Take your best guess. It was outstanding with great service. One night a week the hotel served a grand buffet with guests coming in Black Tie. I wore my new sports jacket. Breakfasts featured every kind of egg, cold cut, cheese, cereal, and juice you could imagine.



The hotel had its own ski shop and storage place. In the evenings the Italian girls tuned down our beds and secretly left Swiss chocolates on our pillows. In the mornings you may wonder if we took the sleigh to the main lift, which was a distance from our hotel. What would you have done?

Monday, July 1, 2019

Big Mallard and Options




The Salmon River in Central Idaho was running fully in 1994. I had read about Big Mallard for many years, and soon I would meet the biggest rapid on the Salmon. I had been paddling pretty well with a few roles but no swims. As we approached the rapid, I heard it before I saw it. The sound of whitewater has an anxiety-laden excitement to it.

Our guides motioned us to pull over before the rapid for scouting and strategy. The established route would be along the left side of the river which had big rolling waves but no rocks or submerged trees.  The guide's words were ominous: River right is not an option!

As I started down the wave train on the left, I suddenly flipped when a big wave blindsided me. With an unrealistic fear of being washed to the right side of the river, I rolled “with haste” and finished my run.