Stories from the Road

September 28, 2016

Reggio Calabria, Italy

Our guide Tatiana perhaps reflects her culture. She is accepting of frustrations and unmet goals in way that Americans might not. However, opportunities are much less in this part of Italy than in America, and her positions make sense in many ways. She is conscientious and works hard, but there are limitations to what she can accomplish.

Yesterday we stumbled onto a restaurant in the woods. I loved the place right away, and upon sitting down, we were greeted by the owner. He was a handsome, gracious man who steered us to the day’s specialties. First we had an antipasto of hot and cold items and then a homemade fettuccine with mushrooms picked that morning. I told him that if his restaurant were in Del Mar, it would be full every night! He said he heard that comment frequently from visiting tourists. I only wish I could go back, but we have moved back to Reggio Calabria tonight.

Last night we ate a locals’ place in Gerace. There were a lot of guys snacking and drinking wine at the bar, when we arrived. Then they left, but they came back for more wine later. I assumed they went home for dinner and returned to chat with their friends. Many of the restaurants in Calabria don’t have menus. The waiter tells you what he has, and often he’ll ask the chef to fix what you might want, if it isn’t being offered. It is an informal and personal way of dining that is attractive.

 

Yesterday the Caribinieri for reasons unknown stopped us. They checked our passports, Tatiana’s license and then let us go. Vicki and I were stopped a couple of times a few years ago in Sardinia. Go figure.

Tonight we ate at our hotel. I was exhausted and not up for going out, and things worked out well. We had delicious chicken cutlets with mixed salad and shared a cannoli for desert. I had some ice-cold Tenant beer from Scotland to accompany my meal. Vicki was the only woman in the dining room as the other tables were filled with groups of men. Some were staying at the hotel, but several groups came in from the street. Being in foreign countries always raises questions about how different cultures do things. It is fun to think about.