Stories from the Road

September 26, 16

Gerace, Calabria

The coastline of Calabria is devoid of many houses. Apparently the mafia and political machine likes it that way, which may help them but not the local economy. I was seeing condos where there was empty land. At any rate the place is beautiful, and it became more scenic as we wound our way up to the Eagle’s Nest type town called Gerace, where we are spending the night.

Our Italian guide Tatiana told us about the town as we walked its winding streets and cruised some ancient cathedrals. Lunch consisted of wonderful cold cuts, cheese, hot eggplant, and fava beans. It was a treat.

Tatiana is 45 and lives with her mother. Most of her siblings live in the area. In addition to guiding she does private tutoring, though business is slow. Calabria has a depressed economy, and many of the population struggles economically. When she speaks of corruption, she lowers her voice, though we are many kilometers distant from the people she is discussing.

We talked with a couple at lunch from Cleveland. They had just traveled from the Aeolian Islands off the coast of Calabria. I was interested in what they had to say, since we have thought of visiting those islands for some time.

 

People bond quickly when traveling. I remember once in Rome, we talked through our meal to the Canadians sitting next to us. The man was a photographer, and his wife did extensive, solo backpacking in the wilds of Canada. They invited us to come stay with them some time, and I think it would have worked.

Last night we ate at a local place that was hosting a large, lively birthday party. I had a regional favorite, pork with a side of pasta. Everything was excellent. Our guide steered us to another regional favorite, “taturo”, hazelnut and chocolate ice cream fused with chocolate sauce in the middle.